(Article courtesy: Cam Berry)
A wonderful 2-3 day circle trip lies right at our doorstep in Victoria. The Pacific Marine Circle Route is a 300 km road loop through rugged coast lines, picturesque ocean beaches, tranquil lakes, old growth forests and vineyards and cideries. Although the trip can be done in two days it particularly lends itself to a three day journey with two overnight stays.
Day one is usually the beautiful and leisurely drive from Victoria through Sooke to Port Renfrew ( approx. 110 km). The road is winding and slow moving from Sooke west however the pace lends itself to frequent stops at five regional and provincial ocean side parks along the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail. After a mid morning break for coffee and pastry’s at the unique and fantastic Shirley Café at the hamlet of Shirley walk off the calories at French Beach Provincial Park only a few kilometres west. It only about a 20 minute drive to River Jordan, the southwest Island surfing mecca. You are apt to see keen bodies riding the waves in any kind of weather if there is surf.
Although there are scattered small settlements and isolated houses along the route human habitation is very limited and scattered from River Jordan to Port Renfrew. There is active logging in the area so be alert to logging trucks. Port Renfrew, formally primarily known as the south gateway to the famous West Coast Trail and for commercial and sport fishing is now becoming an emerging tourist destination with excellent accommodation choices and a decent restaurant selection. It is also just a few kilometres from the Avatar Grove, home to some of the largest old growth trees in Canada.
We stayed in a yurt at the spectacular Soule Creek Lodge on a mountain top near Port Renfrew. The full service lodge has both cabin and yurt accommodation however the yurts are truly unique with king size beds, large sitting area and full bathrooms. The dining room is also renown however the dining room has been closed as has the lodge during some of the Covid crisis. Be sure to check with the facility to see when they plan to reopen. Port Renfrew also has a good selection of Chalet, Cabin and B&B accommodation options.
After an overnight or two in Port Renfrew head northeast on Highway 14 to the delightful village of Cowichan Lake located at the outlet of the lake into the Cowichan River ( 62 km) . This paved winding highway passes through some extensively logged area however the coast range mountains provide a specular backdrop along most of the route. There is virtually no habitation along this stretch until you arrive at the popular tourist area of Cowichan Lake. Very nice lake resort village especially in the warmer months. Cowichan Lake is about 30 km in length, and is about 4 km wide at its widest point
We had lunch at a very attractive lakeside eatery. Cowichan Lake is a perfect location for keen cyclists to explore the Cowichan Valley Trails. The Cowichan Valley Trail is a spectacular multi-use trail that is an integral part of the Trans Canada Trail route on Southern Vancouver Island. The Cowichan Valley section runs from the Capital Regional District boundary at the top of the Malahat, north to Shawnigan Lake and the Kinsol Trestle, west to the Town of Lake Cowichan then northwest to Duncan.
Try to plan your trip to arrive in Duncan on a Saturday morning. The Duncan Farmers and Craft market operates every Saturday throughout the year and is considered to be the best market on the Island. We always visit it a couple of times each year taking the Brentwood Bay- Mill Bay ferry in both directions. It is only a short drive back to Victoria via the Malahat or the Brentwood ferry.
Submitted by Cameron Berry